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Prompted by the oracle at Delphi, a man named Byzas established a town on the site of present-day Istanbul around 657 BC. Although conquered by Alexander the Great and eventually subsumed by the Roman Empire, Byzantium fared pretty well until it annoyed a Roman emperor by backing his rival in a civil war, and it was subsequently destroyed. A new city was erected in 330 AD, at first called New Rome but quickly rechristened Constantinople in deference to a new Roman emperor.

Constantinople was regarded as the capital of the Eurasian world, thanks in large part to its magnificent architecture - many of the Christian churches and palaces, as well as the impressive Hippodrome, are still visible today.

Embellishments to the city continued as the Eastern Roman Empire grew in strength, reaching its peak in the time of Emperor Justinian in the 6th century. Over the next few centuries the city weathered attacks by the armies of the Islamic and Bulgarian empires, but the crusaders finally sacked it in 1204. The city was reclaimed by a rejuvenated Byzantine Empire 50 years later.

The fall of Constantinople occurred in 1453 when the Ottoman army of Sultan Mehmet II took the city. It was under the Ottomans that a classic mosque design was established and many other great buildings constructed in the city, which was soon renamed Istanbul. The Ottoman Empire over-extended itself militarily in the 18th century and went into a decline, accentuated by the fact that it was well behind Europe in the areas of science, politics and commerce. This led to modernisation attempts and in-fighting, including the eventual slaughter in Istanbul of the janissaries, the sultan's bodyguards and a prominent symbol of the old regimes.

Ethnic nationalism ultimately splintered the Ottoman Empire. Greece was the first nation to assert itself in 1832, with Bulgaria, Romania, Albania and the Arabs primed to follow suit. Meanwhile, other European powers were getting ready to squabble over the geographical pickings.

Russia tried to pressure the Ottomans for control of the faltering empire's subjects, but the unfortunate result was the Crimean War, fought from 1853-56 with British and French support for the Turks against encroaching Russian power.

The turn of the 20th century was greeted with more nationalist uprisings in Macedonia, Crete and Armenia, and Turkish stability hit a new low after the country opted to side with Germany during WWI - the result was the British occupation of Istanbul. The Turkish War of Independence, during which revitalised nationalist forces fought off invaders from Greece, France and Italy, finally led to the birth of the Turkish republic in 1923.

The seat of the new nation was established in Ankara, and Istanbul, no longer regarded as a political or cultural powerhouse, was relegated to a back-seat role in terms of its prominence as a city. All that changed during the 1980s and 1990s, however, when Turkey experienced an economic and tourism boom, and Istanbul is now re-staking its claim as the 'capital' of the Eastern Mediterranean.

Unfortunately the shine came off its tourist-friendly reputation when, on 17 August 1999, the city was flattened by an earthquake measuring 7.4 on the Richter scale. The recent boom in prosperity conversely contributed to the disaster; jerry-built structures, erected ad-hoc throughout the city in an attempt to cash in on the economic windfall, folded like matchstick models and fatalities numbered in the tens of thousands. It was enough to put a severe kink in Istanbul's tourist industry, although numbers are now beginning to rise to pre-earthquake levels.

Getting Around

Istanbul is a city for walking and gazing. It's possible to see all the prime sights of the Old City in one day, but instead of rushing around like a whirling dervish, it's far better to visually divide and conquer the city's attractions by means of a number of planned walks.

A stroll around Sultanahmet Square can take in Topkapi Palace, Sancta Sophia, and the Turkish & Islamic Arts Museum, among other major historical features. The Byzantine mosaics and city walls of the Kariye Muzesi in the northwestern corner of the Old City make another satisfying tour, while wandering across Galata Bridge to explore Beyoglu is also a good pedestrian option. For shopping you should check out the thousands of shops in the Covered Market in Beyazit, and the Egyptian market in Eminonu. And don't forget to try one of the many hammams (Turkish steam baths) to purge your pores.

The Istanbul Metro is being built in stages; the six-station section between Taksim Square and 4.Levant is now open and is a handy US$0.50 ride. There are several tramlines to choose from if you want a ride with a view. If you're staying for more than a few days, consider buying an Akbil pass, a computerised fare card, which you can use to ride buses, trams and ferries.

Ferries and catamarans can take you along the Golden Horn or up the Bosphorus - an hour-long ferry ride will cost you around US$1.30.

Istanbul has a large fleet of yellow taxis, but a cheaper way of getting around the streets is to hire a dolmus, which is a shared taxi or minibus.

It's an easy matter to rent a car; it's navigating the thing through the insane traffic that might prove to be difficult. If you do decide to rent, make sure the agency tells you what kind of petrol the car takes.

Through the Markets and Bazaars:
The region between Beyazit Square and Galata Bridge is the principal market district of the city. This is one of the oldest and most picturesque quarters of Istanbul. We will find that many of the streets in this district are named after the tradesmen and artisans who carry on their activities there, as they have for centuries past.

Sahaflar Carsisi, the ancient and still busy book market of Istanbul. Covered Bazaar, a labyrinth of streets and passages that houses more than 4.000 shops. Valide Hani, the grandest and most interesting of all merchants' lodgings in the city. Spice Bazaar, where the enticing aromas of cinnamon, caraway, saffron, mint, thyme, and every other conceivable herb and spice fills the air.

An ancient covered bazaar (The Grand Bazaar) of over 4.000 shops in the heart of the old city. A recommended way to shop for Turkish specialties from desserts to jewelry. Don't forget to bargain, it's a tradition. And never turn down an offer of the shop owner - don't sweat, it's just "tea"!

Misir Bazaar takes its name from the source of the spices in old times. The merchants of this colorful old covered market, also called the Spice Bazaar, sell spices, herbs, medicinals, dried fruits and a myriad of other goods in barrels and baskets. Today there are several boutiques found there

The open-air bazaars in Istanbul are named either according to the neighborhood or according to the day on which they are held. All kinds of good quality, low-priced goods from clothing to kitchen utensils can be bought in these bazaars. The bazaars in Etiler and Yesilkoy begin early in the morning and last until sunset. There are bazaars in Bakirkoy and Besiktas on Saturday, in Fatih on Wednesday, in Kadikoy on Tuesday, and in Findikzade on Friday.

There are branches of many world famous labels in Istanbul ranging from jewelers and clock makers like Chaumet, Bulgari, Swatch, Maurice Lacroix, Rado, Omega, Universal Geneve, Baume & Mercier, Seiko, Casio to perfumes by Guerlain, Lancome, Escape, Clarins, Christian Dior, Lancaster, Elizabeth Arden, Givenchy, L'oreal, Pond's Institute, Helena Rubinstein. The most exclusive stores are located in the central shopping districts of the city.

Antique stores in Istanbul are concentrated in several districts according to their specialization. The most famous areas for old furniture are Horhor Carsisi in Aksaray, Antikacilar Carsisi in Mecidiyekoy, Kuledibi district around the Galata tower, Cukurcuma around Taksim, and Uskudar Carsisi in Uskudar. There are also districts for old books, the most well known being Sahaflar Carsisi at Beyazit Meydani and Kitapcilar Carsisi in Kadikoy.
There are rare and used booksellers on and around Istiklal Caddesi at Tunel as well. Although there area jewelers spread around the whole city, the place to find the richest variety is the Grand Bazaar. Old palace miniatures and precious stones are displayed in all their glamour in the shop windows. There are also jewelers preferring more modern designs.

Leather goods can be bought at considerably cheaper prices than on the world market. In and around the Grand Bazaar, you can find Turkish made leather jackets, pants, bags and shoes. Istanbul will gladly offer you handmade mother-of-pearl inlay boxes, Koran holders (rahle), chess and traditional backgammon (tavla) sets. Stores selling game sets made of wood are located on the Mahmut Pasha slope connecting the Egyptian Bazaar to the Grand Bazaar.

The most beautiful gifts to crown your shopping trip in Istanbul and to make your friends back home rejoice are the handmade copper and porcelain objects. Copper is available in products ranging from giant trays two meters in diameter to ashtrays of various forms. In the Bakircilar Carsisi around the Grand Bazaar you will surely find the object of your desire.
The right address for all kinds of glassware is one of the many Pasabahce stores. An evening drink served in a Cesmi Bulbul carafe or a morning tea drank from a tulip-shaped tea glass will revive your memories of this fantastic city.

Sultanahmet Square: the great square in front of the Blue Mosque is the site of ancient Hippodrome, the former center of sportive and civil activities of Constantinople. Today, with its surrounding area, resembles an open-air museum.

Divan Yolu, the Road of Divan and Yeniceriler Caddesi, the Avenue of Janissaries, the ancient thoroughfare between Saint Sophia and Beyazit Square continued to be one of the principal arteries of the town in Ottoman times, for it was the main road from Topkapi Palace to the center of Istanbul. For that reason it is lined with monuments of the the imperial Ottoman centuries, as well as some ruined remnants of imperial Byzantium.

Beyazit Square: the Beyazidiye, the mosque and associated pious foundations of Sultan Beyazit. The mosque marks the beginning of the great classical period, which continued for more than two hundred years.

Suleymaniye: the imperial mosque complex of Suleyman the Magnificent, a masterwork of the greatest of the Ottoman architects, the incomparable Sinan. An exquisite and as yet unspoiled district with traditional old wooden houses.

Attractions

Topkapi Sarayi (Palace)
The Topkapi Sarayi (Topkapi Palace) was the residency of Ottoman sultans for nearly 400 years after its construction in 1453. Its ornately gilded and marbled interior was the perfect setting for the dramas of the Ottoman Empire, and there appears to be a room for every event and every occasion - from a Circumcision Room to a cloakroom for Prophet Muhammed's cloak.

Although Topkapi grew and changed over the years it retained its basic four-courtyard approach. The first courtyard is the Court of the Janissaries, a kind of glorified army barracks where the elite soldiers of the sultanate mixed freely with merchants and tradespeople.

The Ortakapi (Middle Gate) led into the second court where the business of running the empire was conducted by the sultan and 'valide sultan' (queen mother). Inside the court is a beautiful park-like setting with a series of pavillions, kitchens, barracks and kiosks that once served the daily needs of both the Palace high-borns and hoi polloi. Of special interest is the harem; the space that, contrary to lewd expectations of concubines and priapic emperors, was the equivalent of today's Royal Family living quarters. Every detail of Harem life was governed by tradition, obligation and ceremony and, as would expected, the hundreds of rooms are lavishly furnished.

The Third Court, entered via the Gate of the White Eunuchs, was (unsurprisingly) presided over by an elite corps of white eunuchs, personal aides and bodyguards to the sultan himself. The sultan had his private living quarters inside the Third Court. The Fourth Court was at the northeasternmost part of the complex and contains a restaurant, gardens, several kiosks (including the Kiosk of Mustafa Pasha) and the Sunnet Odasi (Circumcision Room).

Topkapi Sarayi is open 9am-4.30pm every day except Tuesday. Admission costs US$5 and US$4 for students. Entry to the Harem costs an additional US$1.50.

Aya Sofya (Sancta Sophia)
The nearby Aya Sofya (Church of the Divine Wisdom) is another grand architectural gesture, this time from the Roman Empire. Regarded as the greatest church in Christendom up until the fall of Constantinople, when it was put back into service as a mosque, the edifice is crammed with fine mosaics and topped by a magnificent dome.

Examining the interior of the church is more a metaphysical than a physical experience. The architecture is such that visitors entering through the main entrance, via the low original steps, experience both a gradual sense of being drawn upwards and a sense of gloomy darkness being dispelled by the inner light of a 30 million gold tesserae (mosaic tiles). The two semi-domes that bookend the main dome, the row of windows that provide the illusion of a semi-dome being the Great dome, the brilliant mosaics of 'Madonna and Child' and 'Christ as Pantocrator', the millions of gilded mosaic tiles and the soaring, brilliant weightlessness of the main dome make Aya Sofya one the most memorable places to visit.

Aya Sofya is open daily, except Monday, from 9am-4pm (later in summer; the galleries with their mosaics are open 9am-3.30pm. Admission costs US$5, students half price.

Sultan Ahmet Camii (Blue Mosque)
The Blue Mosque was the result of a bit of one-upmanship between Sultan Ahmet I and Emperor Justinian, one of the last great monument builders of the Byzantium era. The Sultan was determined to build an edifice that would outshine Justinian's paean to Christendom, the Aya Sophia, and he almost succeeded. The Sultan Ahmet Cammii (Blue Mosque) is a triumph of harmony, proportion and elegance.

The best way to approach the mosque is through the gate in the peripheral wall. A series of domes, starting with the one atop the gate, ripple upwards, drawing the viewer's eye ever-closer to heaven, an effect that the architect, Mehmet Aga, fully intended. The main dome crowns the whole, with a forest of smaller domes clustered around it. The getting-closer-to-Allah effect is reinforced by pencil-thin minarets, also reaching skyward, surrounding the domes.

The Ottoman design is carried through to the ablution fountains in the centre of the courtyards, the arabesques painted on the domes, the blue Iznik tiles (hence the 'blue' of the name) that line the walls, and, although only replacements, the luminous stained-glass windows that filter the outside light.

The mosque is such a popular tourist sight that entry is strictly controlled so as to preserve its sacred atmosphere. Only worshippers can enter through the main door; tourists must use the north door and are not admitted at prayer time. It's also presently undergoing restoration so some areas are marred by scaffolding.

Kapali Carsi (Grand Bazaar)
Istanbul's Kapali Carsi (Grand Bazaar) has been a shopper's mecca since just after the mid-15th century when the smallish warehouse was turned into a teeming bazaar by a constant stream of traders, selling everything from carpets to cummin.

One of the largest sections of the bazaar, the Nuruosmaniye Camii, was designed to show off the modern mind set of your average 18th-century sultan; to the 21st-century visitor, though, with its lofty dome, colonnaded mezzanine galleries and broad band of calligraphy around the interior, it reeks of antiquity and the Ottoman Baroque.

Tourist shops selling glittery geegaws line the main streets but delve into the back streets and you'll still find Istanbullis buying a few metres of cloth, a gold bangle for a daughter's birthday, a beautifully crafted gold-plated 'eye' to ward off evil or an antique carpet. The confusing labyrinth of streets were originally named after the goods sold there (eg Mirror-makers St, Pearl Merchants St, Fez Makers St etc), and although that's not necessarily the case today, it is still possible to buy precious gems, old coins and intricately crafted jewellery in Jewellers St. The Grand Bazaar is also renowned for offering basement-bargain deals on fur and leather goods, kilim products and a range of handcrafted goodies.

Kapali Carsi is open every day except Sundays from 8.30am-6.30pm.

Yerebatan Saray (Basilica Cistern)
Built in 532 AD the Yerebatan Cistern or Basilica Cistern is the largest surviving Byzantine cistern in Istanbul; in fact, 'basilica' is just a high-falutin' term for what's really an enormous water storage tank. It's builder, Emperor Justinian the Great, incapable of thinking in small terms, built it complete with columns, plinths and a Medusa head or two.

The cistern (sometimes referred to as the Sunken Palace) is 70m (230ft) wide and 140m (460ft) long with 336 columns running down the major corridor. The head of Medusa is carved into two enormous blocks supporting the northwestern corner. Alhtough the cistern has undergone a number of facelifts and a thorough spit, polish and clean between 1985-88, water still drops atmospherically through the ceiling and carp frolic in the water. Coloured lights and western classical music add a touch of ambience to any tour of Yerebatan Saray.

It's located diagonally opposite Aya Sofya and is open 9am-4.30pm (5.30pm in summer) and admission costs US$3.50 and $US3 for students.